Hello Zuhaib, It's a bit difficult to read the details in the photo snapshot that you provided, but we assume that the serial resistor is 10 Ohms. You used the additional diode to do the discharging faster, correct? You can check your circuit against the typical one here on page 1.You don't have a cap at Vss and Vdd.The MOSFET needs to be connected with Pin 5. This line is missing in your circuit; therefore, the MOSFET has no potential.The cap at the MOSFET drain to ground is missing.Please consider that cable or connectors can have influences. Wires should be quite short. Please check with an oscilloscope if the gate charge and the timing are ok. Check here: and see chapter 2.1 For timing, see page 3 (Ton,toff,etc) and figure 4 see page 6.

Ton/off is typical 120 & 94 ns. As for details for the gate charge please see here: Also, consider this idea: Here you can use a simulation to check your circuit, see here. Then you can compare the simulation against your osci-pic s. Hope this helps! Hello Zuhaib, Please keep in mind that a high side driver requires the bootstrap capacitor to be charged in order to turn on the switch. This means that driver needs to be used in such a way that it is switching at higher frequencies (kHz) and should have a way to refresh the bootstrap capacitor each cycle.

Check to confirm whether or not the voltage across the bootstrap capacitor (VB to VS) than the UVLO for the IR2110. This voltage should be in the vicinity of the VCC voltage. Also, as asked before, it is not clear what is the value of your bootstrap capacitor. My recommendation to you is to take scope measurements of the signals and timings and compare these against the links that are mentioned in the thread within the reply above.

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I've got a real tough and complicated problem here that I am having trouble solving without some help. I'm building a battery charger using a DC-DC buck converter. I am using a N-Channel mosfet as the high-side switch.

The driver for the mosfet is an IR2110, which has both a high-side and low-side mosfet driver in one chip. Now I have built a BLDC motor controller before using n-channel high-side switches. I used LT1161 chips in those, which work great, but they are limited to 48vdc, and I need to charge a 48v battery with a 60-75v input. I have also built higher voltage BLDC motor controllers using the IR2110 (or equivalent, IR2130), and that works good too. So no problem, right? Test charging a 3v battery from a 24v power supply all works great.

Ir2110 Datasheet Pdf

Then I go to charge a 21v battery and it doesn't work. What is the problem?

It is the high-side charge-pump boost voltage. This works for a motor controller or other load, because when the mosfet is turned on, the source terminal has a path to ground, and can charge up the boost capacitor. But for a battery charger, there is no path to ground!! When the high-side is switched on, the source terminal is now connected to the + side of the battery, which at 3v there is still headroom for the cap to charge above 10v, but at 21v the boost cap can only be charged to 3v from a 24v charge source.

After hours of google searches for a solution, there were none to be found. Well of course I can use a P-channel mosfet instead and the problem goes away, but that is just not an acceptable answer, we need the efficiency of the N-channel mosfet even at the cost of more parts for the driver circuit. OK, I figure we just need a dc boost converter that will boost the voltage of the battery being charged to 10-15v higher, and we can feed that into the IR2011 VH input, and sure enough this works!

Umm, but no it doesn't. A simple cheap LM2577 type of dc-dc boost converter will not work with over 30v input or generate more than 48v. Output, so while it works with the 21v battery, it will explode with the 48v battery.

And yet here is another major problem, that battery voltage GOES UP as it charges, so if we have a DC-DC converter that takes 21v and produces 36v (all good!) then the battery charges up to 27v, and now 36v is not enough! (all BAD) So what we need is a floating input to the DC-DC, it only needs say battery+ and battery+(-5v) as input, and can then generate battery+(+15v) as output. As long as the DC-DC floats, it won't be limited by the battery voltage (could be 200v, no matter).

So this works also! Yeah, I am a GENIUS.NOT. Because how do we get a floating 5v input? Well I used a -5v regulator, and that WORKS! But now I just shifted the problem of 70v inputs to the voltage regulator, and no -5v regulator can handle more than 40v.

So I turn to EEVBlog for help. Right, I have used a separate power supply, the problem is the input and output voltage range are out of bounds for the battery voltage. This chip is limited to 42v input, and I can have 48v. A transformer might help to boost the output voltage. I still have the problem of regulating the boost level to only 10-20v above the battery voltage. I also noticed these transformers are not cheap. What would really solve my problem is a -5v regulator that can handle 100v.

What I do now is use a LM7905 to take 24v input and produce 19v output, which gives me a floating (-)19v (+24v) 5v input to the dc-dc and generates +20v output, which is +15v from the +24v battery high. This works great, but a LM7905 will not work at higher battery voltages. I can use a zener diode on the ground connection of the lm7905 so it doesn't see more than 35v, but now I'm really locked into a restricted voltage range of the battery I can charge. I have found that many small electronic wall warts (12V) work fine at about 50V DC input, that is the power point voltage of my 36V solar array. At that reduced voltage the power is about 1/10 the current rating. That is more than enough to run my micro boards and drivers. Bust them open and remove the resistors for EMI and the diodes used and they will work at even lower.

At reduced voltage ans accompanying higher current resistive losses are even greater. Choose one rated only for 120V for best luck.

I always grab these wall warts at a garage sale for a quarter, a cheap isolated supply. This I almost hate to admit. Instead of a capacitor bootstrap, I have a battery bootstrap in my buck converters. I get free batteries from town recycle. That insures the driver chip has full voltage when first starting. It was a temporary setup to get the buck converter running.

It has been running that way a couple years. The battery recharges in the same way as a capacitor does. So everything is peachy with the isolated DC-DC drive for the high-side.

Battery Charger works great. But now I've been trying to make a simpler board using the IR2011 driver instead of the IR2110, and it just keeps blowing up! And because it blows up and turns on both the high and low side mosfets, it blows them up also. After weeks of this, and dozens of blown up parts, I once again turn for help! I'm not really understanding why the 2110 works, and the 2011 crashes and burns.

The difference between the two driver chips is the 2011 has a separate power for the logic (5v), and the low-side drive (15v), but the 2011 has just a single Vcc it uses for both. To make it a little easier for you, here is the datasheet on the 2011 and 2110 I thought I'd licked the problem by adding another 1k pull-down resistor to the input pins, but that only delayed the time when it blows up. Sooner (like sometimes immediately) or later, both high and low are turned on and everything blows up. And the latest is without ANY inputs to the LIN and HIN inputs, only the 1k pulldowns, and yet the chip is STILL blowing up. My google searches did not find much, only one poor soul with the same kind of problems and got no help and never came back to post he gave up or fixed the issues. So basically what I'm I doing wrong? Something must be wrong.

The circuit is setup as the app notes go, the same as the 2210 but no 5v supply. One difference is the current setup is for 12v AC, and so I don't have a voltage regulator to create 15vdc, I'm just using the rectified AC power (16vdc) to power the driver chip. Somehow I think it is getting over 20vdc that blows it up. However, I added a 18v zener so it clamps anything over 18v, and had no effect, i.e. Still blows up.

Any help appreciated, about as my wits end. From what I've been reading, e.g. I'm thinking that maybe the issue is the negative transient from the rectifier. This document however, does not give me any clues on how to avoid these transients, what can I do? My rectifier is four mosfets, using the intrinsic diodes in them to form a full bridge rectifier. I don't see such transients on my scope, but my scope sucks, and it looks like I damaged my new one when I attached it 1x to 120vac.

I note that I was originally inverting a solid 12vdc into 12vac using the driver chips and they blew up, and I've since simplified to just one driver turnin on a high-side mosfet. So everything is peachy with the isolated DC-DC drive for the high-side. Battery Charger works great. But now I've been trying to make a simpler board using the IR2011 driver instead of the IR2110, and it just keeps blowing up! And because it blows up and turns on both the high and low side mosfets, it blows them up also. After weeks of this, and dozens of blown up parts, I once again turn for help!

I'm not really understanding why the 2110 works, and the 2011 crashes and burns. The difference between the two driver chips is the 2011 has a separate power for the logic (5v), and the low-side drive (15v), but the 2011 has just a single Vcc it uses for both. To make it a little easier for you, here is the datasheet on the 2011 and 2110 I thought I'd licked the problem by adding another 1k pull-down resistor to the input pins, but that only delayed the time when it blows up. Sooner (like sometimes immediately) or later, both high and low are turned on and everything blows up. And the latest is without ANY inputs to the LIN and HIN inputs, only the 1k pulldowns, and yet the chip is STILL blowing up.

My google searches did not find much, only one poor soul with the same kind of problems and got no help and never came back to post he gave up or fixed the issues. So basically what I'm I doing wrong? Something must be wrong. The circuit is setup as the app notes go, the same as the 2210 but no 5v supply. One difference is the current setup is for 12v AC, and so I don't have a voltage regulator to create 15vdc, I'm just using the rectified AC power (16vdc) to power the driver chip. Somehow I think it is getting over 20vdc that blows it up. However, I added a 18v zener so it clamps anything over 18v, and had no effect, i.e.

Still blows up. Any help appreciated, about as my wits end.