The Magic Mouse and Magic Mouse 2 have a slide switch on the bottom of the device. Slide the switch to turn on the device. On the Magic Mouse, the green LED briefly lights up. On the Magic Mouse 2, green coloring is visible beneath the switch. The Magic Keyboard, Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad, and Magic Trackpad 2 have a slide switch on the back edge of the device. Slide the switch to turn on the device (green coloring becomes visible).

Earlier Apple Wireless Keyboard models have a power button on the right side of the device. Press the button and you see a green LED on the top of the device, near the button. When you turn these devices on, they appear as Connected in the Bluetooth section of System Preferences and in the Bluetooth menu in your menu bar. If a device doesn't appear there, make sure it's charged or replace it batteries, and make sure it's been.

Use your Mac notebook's built-in trackpad or a USB mouse to choose Apple () menu System Preferences. Then select Bluetooth and make sure that Bluetooth is turned on. Refer to the table below for more information on determining the Bluetooth status.

If the Bluetooth icon doesn't appear, or if the menu bar status continues to indicate that Bluetooth is off, restart your computer and then try to turn Bluetooth on again. Bluetooth menu icon Bluetooth status Bluetooth turned on, but there are no devices connected to the Mac. See the section of this article. Bluetooth turned on and at least one wireless device is connected. When this icon flashes, at least one wireless device has a low battery. Click the Bluetooth icon to identify the affected device, then recharge the device. Bluetooth is off.

Click the Bluetooth icon using a USB mouse or built-in trackpad and select Turn Bluetooth On. Bluetooth is offline or unavailable. Restart your Mac. If the Bluetooth status doesn’t change, disconnect all USB devices and restart your Mac again. Magic Mouse 2, Magic Keyboard, Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad, and Magic Trackpad 2 have built-in rechargeable batteries.

You can charge these devices by connecting them to a Mac or a USB power adapter using a Lightning to USB Cable. For the fastest battery charging performance, be sure your device is switched on when connected to the Lightning to USB Cable. To check the battery level of these devices, click the Bluetooth icon in your Mac's menu bar, then select your device by name. If the battery level of any device is low, recharge the device. If the device isn’t showing, make sure the device is turned using the steps outlined above. Apple Wireless Mouse, Magic Mouse, and Magic Mouse 2 can be used on most smooth surfaces. If tracking issues occur, try these options:.

Choose Apple menu System Preferences, then select Mouse. Set the Tracking slider to adjust how fast the pointer moves as you move the mouse.

Try using a different surface to see if the tracking improves. Turn the mouse over and inspect the sensor window. Use compressed air to gently clean the sensor window if dust or debris is present. If multiple Bluetooth wireless devices are in use nearby, try turning them off one at a time to see if the issue improves. Bandwidth intensive devices can affect tracking.

Learn more about what to do if your. Use the Keyboard Viewer to test whether the keyboard keys are responding correctly when they are pressed. Choose Apple menu System Preferences, then select Language & Region. Click the Keyboard Preferences button.

Click on the Input Sources tab. Make sure that the keyboard language that you use is listed on the left side. If it's not, click and choose from the languages that appear. Select the checkbox next to Show Input menu in menu bar. Click on the Keyboard tab, then select the checkbox next to Show keyboard and emoji viewers in menu bar. Choose Show Keyboard Viewer from the Input menu in the menu bar. The Keyboard Viewer showing the keyboard layout appears on your display.

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Type the key on the keyboard that doesn’t respond and see if the corresponding key highlights on the Keyboard Viewer. If it does, that key is functioning correctly. If you enable the Mouse Keys feature, many keys might not respond as you expect.

Here's how to turn off Mouse Keys:. In OS X 10.8 or later, choose Apple menu System Preferences. Click on Accessibility, then choose Mouse & Trackpad from the list on the left side.

Then deselect the Enable Mouse Keys checkbox. In OS X 10.7.5 or earlier, choose Apple menu System Preferences. Click on Universal Access, then select the Mouse & Trackpad tab. Then select the Off button next to Mouse Keys. If issues with keys persist, try starting up your Mac in to see whether a software issue is causing the problem.

Did you recently upgrade from your 4+ year old “Miscellaneous” or “Whatever” mouse for something advertised as the “weapon of choice” for gamers? If you have, than you and I might have experienced the same thing. The very second you’ve plugged your optical or laser weapon (laser sounds cooler) into your Mac OS powered machine, you might have noticed something almost immediately – something isn’t right. With the new mouse, very single movement is a pain, it takes at least 5 clicks to open Safari, and you’ve already restarted about 10 times. Is it the mouse? No, it’s Mac OS. After feeling extremely frustrated that my newly purchased mouse (it was a Logitech G500 by the way) was reluctant to work with my Mac, I turned to Google for some answers (using the trackpad of course).

Mac OS’s Mouse Acceleration Issue A few will tell you that Mac OS has an issue with mouse acceleration with high DPI mice, AKA “gaming mice”. To add insult to injury, some of the companies who manufacture these mice are, to put it politely, rather lacking in terms of support drivers for Mac OS. How to Fix the Mouse Acceleration Issue for Mac OS Unfortunately, the above default mouse settings won’t help your top-of-the-line 1800 dpi weapon too much. Until Apple gets their team on this ridiculous issue, the current most popular solution is to use 3rd party software:. Both of these are shareware ($20.00 USD for a license) that work to customize and tweak mouse button preferences, wheels settings, and most importantly, mouse acceleration. SteerMouse Settings Open “SteerMouse” via “System Settings” or “Spotlight”.

Click on “Cursor”. Turn the “Tracking Speed” dial all the way down to 0.0. Increase sensitivity – I’d start with 100. At this point, I’d test the mouse movement.

If it feels a little stiff, increase the sensitivity a bit more, but keep the “Tracking Speed” (aka. Acceleration) down. Depending on what mouse you have and what drivers you have installed, you can increase the “Tracking Speed” a little bit. USB Overdrive Settings Open “USB Overdrive” via “System Settings” or “Spotlight”. Click on “Settings” (it should be automatically selected). Turn the “Acceleration” dial all the way down.

Increase “Speed” – I’d start off with it maximized. Similar to the process with SteerMouse, test your mouse movement and adjust the “Speed” and possibly the “Acceleration” if necessary. Personally, I use SteerMouse because it I feel like it works better – the magic word is “feel”, as everyone has different preferences in terms of sensitivity. I’d highly recommend installing both and try them out with your mouse – one at a time of course. Using SteerMouse or USB Overdrive with Gaming Mice Almost all of the modern gaming mice have the ability to change sensitivity “on-the-fly”, which, without a doubt, is essential for getting headshots and so forth. Personally, I’d recommend centralizing or neutralizing the mouse’s “on-the-fly” sensitivity level before tweaking the settings on SteerMouse or USB Overdrive. That way, you’ll be able to have the most effective range for increasing or decreasing sensitivity.

Above, you can see the sensitivity levels being neutralized on the Razer DeathAdder mouse. If you’re fortunate enough to have purchased a mouse with Mac friendly drivers, then you get even more versatility for sensitivity tweaking. I’ve tried using the mouse’s drivers only without the aid of SteerMouse or USB Overdrive, but it simply isn’t the same. Movement isn’t natural, and I find myself thinking more on how to move my mouse vs. Where to move my mouse.

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Is SteerMouse or USB Overdrive Worth it? SteerMouse has a limited trail period (I believe for about 1 month), and USB Overdrive has that incredibly annoying 10 second count-down window any time you open the application (as seen above). Even though both applications are noticeably different feature-wise, they both have a price tag of $20.00 USD. Whether or not these applications is worth it is debatable as everyone has different needs and preferences.

Personally, after one week of using SteerMouse, I purchased a license via PayPal. I need ultra smooth and sharp precision because I use my mouse primarily to do graphics and illustration, I also game from time to time, so it definitely helps out in that perspective. The default mouse settings just didn’t cut it for me, and I found the Razer drivers (albeit handy) were lacking. Hopefully you found this article somewhat helpful in your quest for perfect pin-point mouse precision. It still saddens me that Apple doesn’t have proper native support for high DPI mice, and the lack of Mac OS support from the companies themselves makes matters even worse. Fortunately, there are 3rd party that will help take care of things, but they come with an annoying and arguably unnecessary price tag.

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At the end of the day, gamers, especially serious ones, need the best stuff and the best stuff rarely comes cheap.